Where we live, there are only two seasons: summer, and getting ready for summer. So when the kids announced that they wanted to see fall colors over the Columbus Day holiday, we pulled out the map to find where the leaves would be putting on a show at that time of year. The answer was the Adirondack Mountains in upstate New York.
We booked flights to Rochester, the closest airport we could find to the area, and the adventure was officially on.
Travel Day: Momos and Mattresses
Our flight landed late in the evening, so we had booked a hotel near the Rochester airport. The kids were hungry, so we made a quick stop at a Nepali restaurant in the city and then went straight back to the hotel. Thrilling stuff, I know. Try to contain your excitement.
Day 1: An "Ocean" and a Lake Called Fourth
Our youngest kids had never seen one of the Great Lakes, so we started the morning at Lake Ontario. The shore was nearly empty except for one woman reading a book near the lighthouse. I'm not much of a reader, but I'll admit I was a little jealous of her peaceful daylight reading time. It was quiet, beautiful, and a lot of fun. The kids played in the sand and we took plenty of pictures. The Great Lakes are truly amazing. They look like the ocean, with no far shore in sight.
After our time at the lake, we started the drive toward the Adirondacks. The drive itself was enjoyable, but we didn't spot any fall foliage along the way. Once we reached the mountains, though, nature rewarded our patience with its full palette of colors.
We couldn't find a hotel near Old Forge, so we booked one in Inlet, a small town a little north of Old Forge. Our hotel sat right on the shore of Fourth Lake. Yes, that's its real name, not a typo. I can only assume New York simply ran out of names for its lakes.
We took a stroll along the lakeshore and then called it a night. It was a long but fun day. One heads-up: finding a good place to eat was a challenge, since there weren't many options. We settled on a pizza place that was just okay, but the kids were happy, and that's all that matters.
Day 2: Black Bear Mountain Humbles Me
We started the morning at Blue Line Coffee, which had a nice atmosphere and good coffee. Then we headed to Black Bear Mountain. The hike was fun but challenging. I'll be honest: I was not expecting that kind of hike, and I definitely underestimated it. At the top stood a tower, and the view was breathtaking. The photo above was taken from that very spot.
We spent a couple of hours at the summit before heading back down. By then we were all starving, so we drove to Old Forge for lunch. Old Forge was lovely. Nestled on the lakeshore, it's surrounded by mountains covered in spectacular fall foliage. We spent some time just strolling around the lake. It was really pleasant, and the kids had a great time. After a couple of hours, we went back to the hotel, a bit worn out from the long hike.
Day 3: Counting Lakes by Boat
By now, Blue Line Coffee had become our go-to breakfast spot. When a place gets your coffee right on the first morning, there's no reason to mess with a good thing, so back we went. Fueled up and ready, we drove to Old Forge, where we had wisely reserved a boat rental the day before.
Here's where I'd like to add one more item to my growing list of things I underestimated on this trip: the size of the lakes. I pictured a pleasant little loop around a pond. Instead, we learned that the lakes are all connected, one flowing into the next, and that they're numbered in order: First Lake, Second Lake, Third Lake, and so on, all the way to Eighth. Whoever named them clearly valued efficiency over poetry, and honestly, it's easy to follow. You always know exactly where you are, even if you have no idea how far you've drifted from where you started.
Being out on the water surrounded by all that fall color was the kind of experience that doesn't need an itinerary. We didn't do much of anything besides boating that day, and nobody complained. No schedule, no long hike, no one asking "how much farther?" Just us, the boat, and one lake after another. It was a lazy day in the very best sense of the word.
By evening, we were happily sun-tired and ready for a good night's rest back at the hotel. Some days are packed with activities. This one was packed with doing nothing in particular, and it turned out to be one of our favorites.
"Whoever named them clearly valued efficiency over poetry."
Day 4: All Aboard in Utica
On day four, we traded the boat for a train. We drove to Utica for a scenic train ride, a round trip from Utica to Thendara and back.
If you've ever wondered whether a train ride can be exciting for the whole family, the answer is yes, especially when the scenery is doing all the work. The fall foliage was in full swing, and watching the colors roll past the windows made the ride even more fun. It's a rare kind of sightseeing where nobody has to drive, nobody has to hike uphill, and everyone gets a window. The kids were glued to the view, and frankly, so were we.
Thendara turned out to be a nice, quiet little town. There weren't many restaurants in the area, which might be a deal-breaker for some travelers, but by this point in the trip, we were seasoned pros at making do. We simply enjoyed our time exploring the town at an easy pace.
After a while, we boarded the train for the ride back to Utica, which gave us a second chance to soak in the scenery we'd already fallen for on the way out. From Utica, we drove back to the hotel at the end of another fun-filled day, already a little sad that the trip was nearing its end.
Day 5: Campus, a Waterfall, and a Delay
On our last day, we checked out of the hotel and grabbed breakfast. Any guesses where? Then we started the drive back to Rochester.
Since our flight wasn't until late evening, we stopped by the University of Rochester to look around. It's a beautiful campus, especially the library dome. We hung out in the student union for a while before heading downtown. I had no idea Rochester has a waterfall right in the middle of downtown. It was pretty and surprisingly quiet.
I took a photo, of course, but here's my honest confession: as pretty as it is, it doesn't do the falls justice. Not even close. No camera I own can capture the whole drop of the water or the mist drifting up between the old brick buildings and the trees just starting to turn. You'll just have to trust me on this one. Better yet, go see it for yourself.
We wrapped up with dinner at a restaurant and headed to the airport, where our flight was promptly delayed. Sigh. That was easily the most boring part of the entire trip. Two hours later, we finally took off from Rochester.
Final Thoughts
All in all, it was a wonderful trip.
Book the Boat and the Train Early
My top tip is to book the boat rental and the Utica train ride well in advance, especially the train ride, because they sell out fast.
Planning a similar trip? Our road trip planning tips cover routes, stops and budget, and if you want more of New York, start with our New York City travel guide.
